Passing fashion seems not to have altered the pre-eminence of gold over the centuries; gold ornaments may be more heavily jeweled or less, but the use of gold, apart from the short-lived vogue for platinum in the 1920`s, has been constant. However, there are, of course, millions who cannot afford gold. Yet, wearing jewellery in any form, be it in gold or otherwise, clearly indicates the importance of the same. Lack of precious materials has never inhibited the wearing of jewellery and even poverty and lack of technical skill has not prevented the creation of innovative and striking forms.
It’s not very unusual to know that a lot of jewelry in different parts of each country has their own special gem to work on and create an exclusive piece of art using it. In India we have been lately getting the craze of going back to the old traditional since again and getting back all their art work, jewelry forms, designs and creations. We are getting them back to this present era. Many jewelry designers have been creating various designs using stones. Now mostly all of know what gem is. But for those who aren’t aware about its precious and use we’ll talk about a gem and what the famous and upcoming jewelry designers have to say.
Indian jewellery has its own history. The most fascinating and extravagant comes from Rajasthan in the north and Hyderabad in the south. The simply stunning Golconda diamonds and emeralds were used in the jewelry that graced the Hyderabadi nobility. The popular stones like uncut rubies, navratanas and popular emeralds came from Rajasthan. Pieces with large size colored precious and semi precious stone are the rage. Lot of similarity in witnessed in the designs from Hyderabad and Rajasthan.
Ancient Indian jewelry are so far found in various excavations. The ancient Indian jewelry comprises of many gold coins and beaded jewelry, used by the various dynasties. Ancient Indian jewelry is the one made from the Indus valley civilization, till the Gandhara & the Sunga dynasty. Jewelry in Moghul Period displays very attractive designs, since these patterns contain the intricate designs, which were not only famous in that era, but even till date. Infact, most of the minute jewelry patterns in the recent ages have also been inspired by the Moghul jewelry.
Indian jewellery market is easily the most dramatic way of setting stones. The method, even if simple, requires a high level of competence and craftsmanship. The jewellery sarpech or turban ornaments is considered the most magnificent piece of jewelry for the males in weddings in old Rajput families. The karnaphool is a motif that recurs as well. They are made more elaborate with jhumkis- shaped like a small umbrella. Having large stones in the the jewelry are in trend now days. Naths or nose rings are also available with pure gold. The hand ornaments like bracelets, bangles, baazubands, hathfools are quite popular among the brides, further completing their trousseau
"I've been passionate about jewelry all my life," says jewelry designer Kiran Nirankari, Ellicott City, Md. Nirankari comes from a family of jewelry collectors "with beautiful old pieces," she says. These family jewels have inspired her to incorporate the style of the past into her designs. "The style is very similar to the old original pieces," she explains, referring to Mughal jewels. But Nirankari wants her new pieces to be wearable as well as traditional. "The old pieces were very ornate, and very beautiful," she says, "but not appropriate for today, to wear often."
Multitudes of these bezel-set gems are joined together, creating a backless carpet of gold and gems, which is then applied onto any firm surface. A small number of Indian jewelry designers and manufacturers are creating new, says Nirankari, "and they're keeping the original weight." She's going only for the look, however, not the poundage.
Pendants and Necklaces have been an epic chapter in the history of Indian jewelry. All the other forms of decoration are supposedly considered incomplete if the necklaces and the pendants are not a part of an individuals’ jewelry. Pendants had their own charm and their own importance for being worn around the necks. However, when it came to the necklaces, they were mostly made in gold added along with the gemstones to add more fascination for the onlookers. However, apart from having their own share of fame during the earlier times, one cannot help but notice, the recent generation too getting captivated in those designs and it resulting in the same designs and patterns coming back to life, since these Moghul designs are the very base of every delicate handiwork by the modern jewelry makers. Let us categorize the same ancient jewelry in different forms and see the delicate designs, which have been the basis of our modern jewelry since the recent jewelry makers have inherited this fashion statement as well.
Nirankari is not the only one falling in love with the Mughal style. Both the Museum of Fine Arts in Houston and the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City have displayed "Treasury of the World: Jeweled Arts of India in the Age of the Mughals." Part of the al-Sabah Collection, on loan from the Kuwait National Museum, the jewels feature polished, carved, and engraved (rarely faceted) rubies, emeralds, diamonds, and enamels.
Nirankari uses traditional table-cut diamonds, polished emeralds, rubies, and enamels in her jewelry pieces, which are handcrafted in India using the methods of the old masters. "The artisans who handcraft my designs find them quite challenging," says Nirankari, who is breaking new ground by -setting iolite, moonstone, and rock crystal. "You can mix and match anything," she says. "That's the beauty of contemporary designing."